Every day we hear of a new study that says ultra-processed foods (UPFs) are “associated with” some chronic health condition.
I recently moderated a session on UPFs at the Academy of Nutrition & Dietetics annual Food & Nutrition Conference & Exhibition in Minneapolis (FNCE). The presenters were:
- Richard Mattes, Distinguished Professor of Nutrition, Purdue University, and
- Julie Hess, PhD, researcher with USDA’s Agricultural Research Service
Confusion reigns – amongst consumers but also health professionals – because UPFs have no universal definition. The “NOVA classification” system, developed by a group of academics from Brazil, is often used, but it has been widely criticized for its flaws and inconsistencies.
NOVA’s 4 Categories Of Foods
NOVA Category | Description | Examples |
1: Minimally Processed Foods | Foods from nature with inedible parts removed | Fresh broccoli, fresh grapefruit, dried beans |
2: Processed Culinary Ingredients | Category 1 foods in a different form | Olive oil, butter, lard |
3: Processed Foods | Made by adding sugar, salt, oil, etc. to group 1 or 2 foods | Smoked meat & fish, fresh, made/unpackaged bread |
4: Ultra-Processed Foods (UPFs) | Formulation of industrial use ingredients | Foods with high fructose corn syrup, additives, vegetable gums & thickeners |
You probably assumed foods like candy and soda would be UPFs. But try and spot the UPF in this list:
- 100% whole wheat bread
- hard-cooked eggs
- peanut butter
- dried apricots
- veggie burgers
- canned kidney/garbanzo beans
- blueberry Greek yogurt
Answer: ALL OF THEM — according to the NOVA system.
- 100% Whole wheat bread: If even a tiny amount of sugar or high-fructose corn syrup is added, then it’s a UPF.
- Hard-cooked eggs: If they’re bought pre-cooked (making deviled eggs for a crowd?), they probably have a preservative to extend the shelf life.
- Peanut butter: Even a tiny amount of hydrogenated fat (NOT trans fat), to prevent separating, makes it UPF.
- Blueberry Greek yogurt: Added sugar, not typical of plain Greek yogurt, and a preservative, (like potassium sorbate which occurs naturally & is VERY safe) makes it a UPF.
- Veggie burgers: Often made from textured soy protein, with vegetable gums and thickeners to improve texture. Definitely UPF.
- Canned garbanzo beans: If the ingredients include a preservative, it’s UPF.
It gets weirder: A white-bread baguette from a local bakery is a “processed food”. Get it from a national brand in a supermarket and it’s “ultra-processed,” as it may have an additive, often ascorbic acid (a.k.a. vitamin C) to make it softer or extend shelf life.
So…are UPFs unhealthy?
Some “observational” studies suggest they’re “associated with” (or “linked to”) various chronic health conditions. The problem: observational studies cannot show any cause-and-effect. If they’re not backed up by clinical trials – of which there is exactly 1, and not a very good one – then any conclusions are iffy at best.
Regarding UPFs & health risks, despite the media hype, even the observational studies c0llectively show:“…t
he reality is that [there’s] a relatively small effect size,” of about a 2%-5% increase in health risk from UPFs — comparable to the risk from factors like watching TV or missing sleep.
–Dr. Richard Mattes, Distinguished Professor of Nutrition, Purdue University
Is there Anything GOOD About UPFs?
There is – because UPFs is a broad category, encompassing many foods — such as those canned beans, whole wheat bread, and Greek yogurt – that I’d be thrilled to see more people eating.
Who would put these foods in the same category as marshmallows and soda? Who would do that?
The NOVA creators did exactly that. Ow.
Can A Diet Of Mostly UPFs Be Healthy?
A 2023 study asked exactly this question.
The average American gets about 58% of calories from UPFs. USDA’s Healthy Eating Index (HEI) rates diets on their balance and quality. American’s average an HEI score of 59 out of 100 – pretty bad.
The researchers aimed to develop a dietary pattern that aligned with the Dietary Guidelines for Americans but that had at least 80% of calories from UPFs.
It worked. The “UPF diet” scored a whopping 86 on the HEI – FAR better than most Americans’ current diets. The UPF diet was a slightly lower in vitamins E, D and choline, and higher in sodium, but most Americans’ diets fare far worse.
There ARE Excellent UPFs!
- Along with canned beans, whole-wheat bread, and flavored Greek yogurt mentioned above, foods like dried fruits may have a safe preservative so they don’t spoil. That prevents food waste!
- Healthful UPFs can last longer in the freezer, the refrigerator, or on the shelf, which cuts food waste, saves money, & stretches tight food budgets.
Some foods like low-fat salad dressings, may have a vegetable additive to thicken or keep it from separating. These foods are fine! They can also be more budget-friendly. Buy the ones you’ll eat and can afford.
So…What’s the Takeaway?
- “UPF” as NOVA defines it, is about ingredients, not nutrition.
- There are PLENTY of UPFs that are plenty nutritious, delicious, & economical.
- Favor nutrient-dense UPFs over empty-calorie UPFs.